Chinese sweet and sour spicy soup (Peking soup) with sponges

Anyone who has ever ordered “Peking soup” in a Chinese restaurant will probably remember this very special moment: a spoonful of hot broth, a surprising tingle on the tongue, a pleasant acidity, a little sweetness and a soothing spiciness. This soup is anything but restrained – it awakens the senses and warms you from the inside. And in this recipe, it is made even more special by the use of the best of all soup mushrooms, the hen-of-the-woods mushroom. But where does Peking soup actually come from? And what makes it so special?

A classic without a clear origin

The name suggests that the soup comes from Peking (Beijing). In fact, this is more of a marketing or translation product than a geographical truth. This type of soup hardly plays a role in traditional northern Chinese cuisine. Rather, the modern “Beijing soup”, as it has become known in Western restaurants, originates from southern Chinese or Cantonese cuisine, particularly from Hong Kong and the surrounding area.

With the spread of Chinese restaurants all over the world – especially from the middle of the 20th century – sweet and sour soup has become a real export hit. It serves precisely those flavors that are also well received outside China: sweet, sour, spicy, strong and yet balanced. The version we know today is therefore a product of global Chinese restaurant culture – a dish that has its roots in China but has been shaped by international influences. But does that matter? Above all, it’s damn tasty, especially with stick sponges!

Between acidity, sweetness and spiciness – the art of balance

What really sets Peking soup apart is the way it plays with contrasts. It combines acidity, sweetness, spiciness and umami in such a way that no one note is too dominant. Or just the way you like it.

• Acidity: usually from Chinese black vinegar*(Chinkiang vinegar) or rice vinegar. It provides freshness and depth.
• Sweetness: a hint of sugar, sometimes honey, balances out the spiciness.
• Spiciness: traditionally comes from white pepper or chili oil, in Sichuan versions also from the famous Szechuan pepper with its slightly numbing aroma.
• Umami: strong broth (chicken, pork or vegetables), soy sauce, mushrooms and sometimes fermented ingredients provide depth.

The interplay of these elements is a bit of a balancing act. Too much acidity – and it tastes sharp. Too much sugar – and it tastes soapy. The perfect Peking soup remains lively, complex and round.

The typical base – and why texture counts

In China, not only the taste but also the mouthfeel plays a major role. A good Peking soup is slightly creamy, not too thin and not too thick. This consistency is created by adding a little corn or tapioca starch, which gives the broth a silky texture.

In addition, there are usually:

• fine bamboo shoots,
• Wood ear or shiitake mushrooms in the classic version, here: Cane sponges.
• Tender strips of tofu or meat. We don’t do that, the mushrooms have everything we need.
• sometimes a whisked egg, which pulls fine threads when stirred into the hot soup.

This mixture of soft, crunchy and smooth textures makes every spoonful interesting – you can taste, smell and feel the soup at the same time.

The cane sponge – an underestimated star in Beijing soup

If you want to make the Peking soup vegetarian or vegan, it is worth thinking about using the cane sponge (scientific name: Kuehneromyces mutabilis). This mushroom, which grows on old tree trunks of deciduous trees, preferably beech, or dead wood, is native to Europe and is one of the most aromatic edible mushrooms of all – provided you can recognize it with a sure hand, as it has inedible and, above all, a highly poisonous doppelganger, the poison hemlock. Anyone who collects the mushrooms themselves should be able to identify them with certainty and, above all, pay attention to the brown, fibrous, scaly stem of each mushroom.

In the kitchen, the cane sponge is exceptionally versatile. When sautéed, it develops an intense, almost nutty aroma with a slightly spicy depth. In broths and soups, on the other hand, it gives off a fine, hearty umami flavor that is reminiscent of meat or dried shiitake, but remains surprisingly light. This is exactly what makes it perfect for a plant-based version of Peking soup: it adds structure, flavor and depth – without missing any meat or broth.

Another advantage: the slightly gelatinous consistency of its caps retains its shape and bite even in hot broth. This creates small islands of flavor when spooned, which combine wonderfully with the acidity and spiciness of the soup. Especially if you cook the soup with rice vinegar and a strong vegetable stock, the earthy aroma of the mushroom harmonizes perfectly with the sweet and sour base.

In short, the cane sponge is a real insider tip – not just for collectors, but for anyone who loves soups that have depth and character. One spoonful and you’ll understand why this wild mushroom works amazingly well in an Asian-inspired soup.

Do you love mushrooms as much as I do? Then take a look at my other mushroom recipes!

Variants and regional differences

As with many popular dishes, there is not just one Peking soup, but numerous variations – depending on the region, cook or personal preference.

1. the classic “Hot & Sour Soup”

In China, Hong Kong and the USA, the classic version often has a clearer taste: with pork stock, bamboo shoots, wood ears, shiitake, tofu, vinegar and white pepper. It is lightly thickened and served with a dash of chili oil or sesame oil.

2. vegetarian and vegan versions

Replace the meat stock with a strong mushroom or vegetable stock. Shiitake or dried mushrooms provide enough umami so that the meat is not missed at all. Tofu or seitan also provide substance.

3. the European restaurant version

In many German or European Chinese restaurants, the soup is served a little sweeter – often with a dash of tomato paste or ketchup and sometimes even pineapple chunks. This is less like the traditional hot and sour soup, but is a good example of adapting to local tastes.

4. Sichuan style

If you like it more intense, go for the Sichuan version: with plenty of chili, fermented beans, Szechuan pepper and an aroma that makes your nose and lips tingle. This version is not for the faint-hearted – but it shows how differently the same idea can be interpreted.

Tips if you want to cook them yourself

• If possible, use black Chinese vinegar (Chinkiang) – it has a pleasant depth. Unfortunately I didn’t have any here, only rice vinegar, but the tip is worth it.
• The broth is the foundation – the stronger, the better.
• If you’re making it vegetarian, add dried mushrooms or mushrooms to the broth; this adds flavor, such as the hen-of-the-woods mushrooms here.
• Do not bind too thickly – it should be smooth, not pudding-like.
• Experiment with heat levels – slightly hot and aromatic is better than just fiery.

Conclusion: A soup with character

Whether you eat it as a warming start to a meal or as a quick everyday dish, Peking soup is a prime example of Chinese flavor harmony. It is intense, but never overloaded. It warms, invigorates and surprises again and again. And perhaps that is the secret of its success: it combines opposites in the most delicious way. So here is my recipe with stick sponges. Have fun cooking it.

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