Japanese pickled mushrooms (Reizker) – Kinoko Sunomono

In addition to all the well-known Japanese dishes, Japanese cuisine has so many great side dishes, snacks, etc. to offer that I will never try everything in my life. However, when it comes to mushrooms, I can’t resist and therefore present you with this wonderful recipe for Japanese pickled mushrooms (Kinoko Sunomono). The mushrooms I collected are perfect for this because of their firm consistency, but more on that below.

Sunomono

Sunomono (酢の物) literally means “made with vinegar” – and it refers to a whole family of Japanese salads or side dishes in which acidity, sweetness and often a touch of umami are involved. Typically, cucumbers (“kyuri sunomono”) or seaweed are added, as well as mushrooms – hence the name kinoko sunomono – an elegant and light variation that is perfect as an appetizer or accompaniment to sushi, grilled fish or simply with rice.

What’s in it, what’s important?

The basic idea: thinly sliced mushrooms in a mild vinegar marinade with a balance of sweetness + umami + spice. And we’re not talking about classic pickled vinegar mushrooms, which are dominantly sour and have a long shelf life. No, these mushrooms, in this case the lychee, are delicate. However, they can be kept in the fridge for a maximum of 5 days.
A classic basic marinade could look like this:

• Rice vinegar (mild acidity)
• some sugar or mirin, I use mirin
• light soy sauce or tamari
• a dash of dashi stock or kombu extract for umami – absolutely!
• very finely chopped spring onions, possibly a little ginger
• a touch of sesame oil or roasted sesame seeds as a flavor finish, a little more if you like it
• Lime juice, for the special acidity

You can find a detailed recipe for Japanese pickled mushrooms with quantities below.

After frying in neutral oil, mix the mushrooms with the marinade and leave to marinate – ideally for a few hours in the fridge, sometimes overnight. Important: the mushrooms should not become mushy, but retain a clean, tender texture. Part of the appeal lies in the contrast: freshness, acidity, a slight bite and at the same time the earthy aroma of the mushrooms.

Which mushrooms are particularly suitable?

Mushrooms with firm flesh and good aroma are ideal – cultivated mushrooms, shiitake, enoki, oyster mushrooms or wild mushrooms, if available. Decisive factors:

• Water content: Mushrooms give off moisture quickly. If they are too watery, the marinade will water down. Therefore, drain them a little beforehand (salt briefly, drain) or pre-soak them in lightly salted water.
• Firmness: mushrooms that are too soft would turn into mushy mush in the fridge.
• Aroma: a slightly more intense mushroom aroma is beneficial so that the vinegar marinade does not drown out everything.

In comparison to a stir-fry, this is not about frying or roasting – with Japanese pickled mushrooms it’s a case of frying, then marinating until tender, generally not overheating.

Why pine irritants (Lactarius deliciosus & L. semisanguifluus) are ideal for Kinoko Sunomono

Now for the most exciting part: if you have access to good wild mushrooms, lactarius are an excellent choice for your Kinoko Sunomono. I’m talking in particular about Lactarius deliciosus and Lactarius semisanguifluus, which is often found in coniferous forests. I also have a recipe for Chinese duck legs with fresh lactarius deliciosus.

Who is who – briefly about the mushroom species

• Lactarius deliciosus (true lactarius, pine lactarius): Yellow-orange cap, often reddish or greenish tones with age, usually grows under pine trees.
• Lactarius semisanguifluus (half-blood lactarius): very closely related, similar in appearance and taste, often somewhat finer in tone, olive-colored tones.

Both mushrooms have a characteristic aroma – earthy, slightly nutty, with a hint of spice – and a texture that keeps well. Generally speaking, all red-milked mushrooms are suitable, provided you can identify them with certainty. Otherwise, it is better to use shiitake and the like.

Advantages of this lychee in the Sunomono marinade

1. Expressive aroma
   Ripened chervil has its own mushroom aroma, which is not lost in the acidity and spiciness of the vinegar marinade. They provide depth and character.
2. Firm structure
   They are not overly tender – unlike some wild mushrooms, which have very soft flesh. They remain firm to the bite, even after hours in the fridge.
3. Good water displacement
   Although pickles also contain moisture, they are less prone to releasing an extreme amount of water in a short space of time than some other species. This plays into your hands because the vinegar marinade is not watered down.
4. Color and appearance
   The orangey-red tones of the lychees often remain attractive if they are handled gently, and they form a nice contrast to the light marinade and green herbs.

How to use Reizker correctly in Sunomono

• Careful cleaning: Stir-fryers tend to bring some soil residue with them. Rub briefly or brush very briefly – do not soak excessively to avoid risking a loss of flavor.
• Pre-cook in a cool place (optional): If lychees are very young, blanching them briefly (e.g. 30 seconds in hot water) can help to expel some of the water – then immediately quench them in ice water. This step is optional and depends on the condition of the mushrooms.
• Slicing: Cut into thin slices or thin wedges – not too thick to allow good mixing with the marinade, but also not wafer-thin to lose bite.
• Marinate: Ideally 4-8 hours, better overnight.
• Finish: Just before serving, add a little fresh ginger, spring onion or the finest sesame oil to freshen up the flavors.

So if you have access to fresh wild mushrooms, Lactarius deliciosus and L. semisanguifluus provide a wonderful way to make your Kinoko Sunomono particularly aromatic and full of character. They provide structure, flavor and shelf life in the vinegar marinade – and ensure that your mushroom Sunomono is not just “nice”, but a real taste experience. Here are my collected mushroom recipes – take a look around!

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